Can you plant garlic after tomatoes? The short answer is usually yes, and in fact, it can be a great idea! But let’s dig a little deeper to understand why and how to make it work for your garden.
**Why Plant Garlic After Tomatoes?**
Tomatoes and garlic can be excellent companion plants in a garden rotation. Here’s why:
* **Nutrient Cycling:** Tomatoes are heavy feeders, meaning they take a lot of nutrients from the soil, particularly nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Garlic, on the other hand, is a lighter feeder. Planting garlic after tomatoes can help to utilize any leftover nutrients in the soil.
* **Pest and Disease Control:** Tomatoes are susceptible to various pests and diseases. Garlic is known for its natural pest-repelling and disease-fighting properties. Planting garlic after tomatoes can help to reduce the incidence of soil-borne diseases and pests that might target the next crop. Garlic’s sulfur compounds act as a natural fungicide and insecticide.
* **Improved Soil Structure:** The root systems of tomatoes and garlic differ. Tomatoes have deep roots, while garlic roots are more shallow and fibrous. This different root structure improves soil aeration and drainage.
**How to Successfully Plant Garlic After Tomatoes**
Here’s a step-by-step guide to ensure a successful garlic crop following your tomatoes:
1. **Timing is Key:** Garlic is typically planted in the fall, about 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes. This allows the garlic to establish roots before winter. In most regions, this means planting in late September through November. After harvesting tomatoes in late summer, you’ll have the perfect window to prepare the soil for garlic.
2. **Soil Preparation:** After removing tomato plants, amend the soil. Garlic prefers well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Add compost or well-rotted manure to replenish nutrients used by the tomatoes. Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH (around 6.0 to 7.0). A soil test can help you determine if any other amendments are needed.
3. **Choosing the Right Garlic:** Select garlic varieties suitable for your climate. There are two main types:
* **Hardneck:** These are more cold-hardy and produce a flower stalk called a scape.
* **Softneck:** These are better suited to milder climates and don’t typically produce scapes.
Local nurseries or agricultural extension offices can recommend varieties that thrive in your region.
4. **Planting the Garlic:** Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves. Plant the largest cloves, as they will produce the biggest bulbs. Plant cloves pointed end up, about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart. Space rows about 10-12 inches apart.
5. **Mulching:** Apply a thick layer of mulch (straw, leaves, or wood chips) after planting. Mulch helps to:
* Moderate soil temperature
* Retain moisture
* Suppress weeds
* Protect the soil from erosion during winter
6. **Watering:** Water thoroughly after planting. Garlic needs consistent moisture, especially during the fall and spring. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to bulb rot.
7. **Fertilizing:** Garlic benefits from fertilization in the spring. Once the ground thaws, apply a balanced fertilizer or side-dress with compost tea or fish emulsion.
8. **Scape Removal (for Hardneck Varieties):** If you’re growing hardneck garlic, remove the scapes (the flower stalks) as they begin to curl. Removing scapes redirects the plant’s energy into bulb development, resulting in larger bulbs. Scapes are also edible and can be used in cooking.
9. **Harvesting:** Garlic is typically ready to harvest in mid-summer when the lower leaves begin to turn brown. Carefully dig up the bulbs, being careful not to damage them.
10. **Curing:** After harvesting, cure the garlic in a dry, well-ventilated place for several weeks. This allows the outer skins to dry and protects the bulbs from rotting.
**Common Issues and How to Address Them**
* **Poor Soil Drainage:** Garlic hates wet feet! Ensure your soil is well-draining. Amend with sand or perlite if necessary. Raised beds can also improve drainage.
* **Pests and Diseases:** Monitor your garlic for signs of pests or diseases, such as garlic mites or fungal infections. Use organic pest control methods, such as insecticidal soap or neem oil. Ensure good air circulation around the plants to prevent fungal diseases.
* **Nutrient Deficiencies:** Yellowing leaves can indicate a nutrient deficiency. Conduct a soil test to determine the specific deficiency and amend accordingly.
**FAQ**
* **Can I plant garlic in the same spot every year?**
It’s generally best to rotate crops to prevent the build-up of soil-borne diseases and pests. However, if you amend the soil regularly with compost and practice good soil management, you can grow garlic in the same spot for a few years.
* **What are good companion plants for garlic?**
Garlic is a great companion plant for many vegetables, including beets, carrots, kale, lettuce, spinach, and tomatoes. It can help to repel pests that attack these crops.
* **My garlic bulbs are small. What did I do wrong?**
Small bulbs can be caused by several factors, including poor soil, inadequate watering, nutrient deficiencies, or not removing scapes from hardneck varieties.
* **How do I store garlic long-term?**
Store cured garlic in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. Braiding the stalks or trimming them and storing the bulbs in a mesh bag are common methods. Properly stored garlic can last for several months.
Planting garlic after tomatoes is a smart gardening strategy that can improve soil health, control pests, and provide a delicious and valuable crop. With proper planning and care, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of garlic each year.